BILLY SUTER spent the past weekend meandering in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands, savouring the tail end of winter while reviewing the tranquil and secluded Midlands Forest Lodge in Balgowan. He also took up an invitation to review the landmark Caversham Mill Restaurant which, overlooking a bridge, waterfall and the Lions and Impafana Rivers, is just 3km or so down the road from the getaway spot.
IT WAS love at first sight for Terry and Di Acres when, in 2007, they gazed upon 15 hectares of indigenous mistbelt forest from a lodge high up on the edge of hills and slopes in Balgowan in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands.
That view, at an altitude of 1 340m, was enough for the Acres to snap up the property, leave Johannesburg, settle into country living and breathe new life into what is now Midlands Forest Lodge, which they own and run with three dedicated staff, Noluthando, Thembi and Zandile.
Now comprising 12 timber chalets embraced by colourful Azalia bushes and an abundance of indigenous flora, the lodge offers a communal building with free wi-fi, a reception (a step or two from a man-made, mini waterfall), an honesty bar, and a lounge with TV and a fireplace. There is also a river deck and cosy breakfast room, where a full English breakfast is available on request (a very good one, too!).
Outside the communal building, a large area of lawn features tables and benches, a large firepit for chilly evenings and, up a nearby bank, the Balgowan Brewery which one can visit by appointment.
Offering easy access to all Midlands Meander activities, the lodge has eight Standard timber chalets on stilts, two family chalets with two bedrooms each, and two Superior chalets with a lounge, TV and kitchenette.
My partner, Gordon, and I were assigned to a 65m² Superior chalet offering a small but adequate kitchenette, a cosy lounge with DStv (loved the rocking chair) and a bedroom with an en-suite shower and toilet.
It was super comfy, with two little porches – and a real treat were the window-to-ceiling, framed-glass windows which, overlooking the forest sprawling into the valley below, provided terrific views of spectacular orange-ochre-pink sunsets the two nights we were there.
The original lodge was a little bare, needed some TLC when it was bought, and at one point also offered an Afro-fusion restaurant, recalls owner Di. But that has all changed now at this three-star getaway.
“We mainly bought the place because of our love for the forest,” Di explains.
“We renovated all the rooms and planted hundreds of indigenous trees and shrubs between the chalets to add to the ambiance. We did major improvements in decor and luxury – good beds, quality linen and blankets, carpets and curtains. Also, we developed stunning indigenous gardens to attract birds, bees, butterflies and bugs.”
A beautiful place to spend a few days, the property offers 22 hectares in total, most of it forest and the majority of the remainder being natural grassland.
“There is approximately only 2% of natural grassland left in the Midlands area due to farming and forestry – so it is very precious,” says Di.
“We try to maintain the property’s natural integrity and beauty. It is an ongoing cycle of pushing back alien invaders such as bug weed, wattle and bramble. We love the indigenous spring flowers that come up each year and we treasure sightings of ground orchids.”
After a late Friday afternoon arrival following a leisurely, 90-minute drive from Durban – and a stop for hot chocolate and carrot cake at the Piggly Wiggly outdoor shopping centre en route – Gordon and I unpacked, did a quick walkabout and then chilled over sushi and some good wine to await Friday’s spectacular sunset.
After an early night and an early Saturday rise we both enjoyed a hearty breakfast in the communal area. It includes cereals, yoghurt and muesli, fruit and juices, filter coffee, eggs, bacon, tomato, sausage and toast.
We then spent an hour or so on one of the three trails around the lodge – a snaking, 1,2km walk through the forest. Such a treat. We loved the splendid, 800-year-old Yellowwood trees, some of which are truly massive in a sloping terrain that also boasts forest orchids and incredible fungi. Sadly, we didn’t get to glimpse the regular mating pair of African Crowned Eagles that Di says are sometimes spotted at the lodge.
Besides just soaking in the stillness and fresh air, we also took Di’s advice and found lots of interest within a few kilometres, including a visit to the lovely Ardmore Ceramics Gallery and Museum, and local markets. We also enjoyed a great pork belly in the pub at Rawdons in Nottingham Road.
One could also visit the popular Nelson Mandela Capture Site and various cheese-makers. And do pop in at The Platform art gallery at the unique Lions River Station, where there are some wonderful sculptures, and arts and crafts for sale. Also there is the facade of a red London bus, the innards of which have become levels for tables and chairs overlooking a stage where one can enjoy music on Sunday afternoons. And for the more adventurous and energetic, potential options include Lions River Rafting.
Note that Midlands Mountain Lodge is soon to launch a new initiative of offering gourmet picnics in the forest or on the grassland. Di and Terry are looking to offer “stunning settings and delicious baskets of goodies. All pre-booked and with limited sites – very exclusive”. Sounds great.
By the way, Di and Terry also own Mill Cottages, close to the gurgling Lions River at the popular Caversham Mill Restaurant. The Mill Cottages and Midlands Forest Lodge are very different properties; one having logwood cabin chalets and a forest, and the other offering iron, wattle and daub cottages on the confluence of the Lions and Impafana Rivers.
The Acres also once owned the delightful Caversham Mill Restaurant. A popular visit for my family over the years, it originally launched in 1996, when it operated only at weekends. Di and Terry took ownership in mid-2004, focusing on fine dining, then in 2020 leased the restaurant to an independent owner. Finally, on April 1 last year, Terry and Di sold the restaurant to Neresh and Alveera Barmanandh.
This married Durban couple, new to the restaurant world, have made the restaurant a lot more family-orientated and have festooned the grounds overlooking the Lions River with decorative lighting, and also introduced children’s playground equipment. The menu is now a lot more casual, but still varied.
The view of the old bridge over the waterfall, set against rolling hills, remains priceless and is a big drawcard, making this one of the must visits in the area. The restaurant still has remnants of the original mill, the first water-driven mill in KwaZulu-Natal, constructed between 1852 and 1853 with local yellowwood and sneezewood.
On a previous visit a few months ago, Gordon and I both enjoyed the very tasty lamb curry and rice (R135). I was tempted to have it again but because I had heard good reports of the butter chicken I gave that a whirl. Plentiful and flavourful, not too hot, it is served with sambals. It comes with rotis or rice or as a “bunny chow” (meat in thick, hollowed bread).
Gordon opted for the chicken and mushroom pizza (R150) which was huge, had a tomato base and a very generous topping including mozzarella, peppers and onions. It had a nice, fairly firm crust. The base was just a little too thick for my liking, but the pizza was yummy all the same.
We decided to share a pud – a cheesecake served with blueberry jelly. It was rich and satisfying without being remarkable, but perhaps a tad overpriced at R95.
The menu offers six breakfast dishes – try the Caversham Eggs Benedict (R130), I am told – and a choice of six light meals includes a curried lamb sandwich (R135) and a curried bean sandwich (R75). There are also four menu items for “Little Ones”.
If you’re after something more substantial, perhaps try one of the seafood dishes which include local trout, hake and calamari; or one of the gourmet burger options. There are seven Chef’s Signature Dishes – including pork belly, oxtail stew, lamb shank and pan-fried lamb cutlets.
The menu also has a selection of starters and appetisers, and a choice of 11 pizzas range in price from R95 (Margarita) to R200 (a Spicy Prawn Pizza with a tomato base, prawns, a creamy sauce, chilli, coriander and various herbs and spices).
Dessert options are minimal … the likes of flapjacks, buttermilk scones, Cake of the Day, cheesecake and the ubiquitous ice-cream and chocolate sauce.
……….THINGS TO KNOW……….
Caversham Mill Restaurant:
The restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, but open from 8am to 4pm on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Sundays and public holidays, It is open from 8am to 8pm on Fridays and Saturdays. For a reservation call 033 2344 524.
Midlands Forest Lodge:
Accommodation rates: The cost per person, per night, to stay at any one of 10 chalets at the lodge is currently R780 (breakfast included). The rate for each of the two Superior chalets, Room 9 and 12, is currently R860 per person, per night (breakfast included).
The lodge can be reached by calling 078 986 0241 or visit the websites: millcottages@mweb.co.za
.....SoSuterBill..... 